Last Gasp of a Dinosaur
by Darcy O'Neil on August 06, 2010
There is an interesting post over at the Bartending Magazine blog about the new complex nature of cocktails. To summarize the post, the author laments the fact that progress is interfering with “classic cocktails”, like the Rum & Coke and Screwdrivers, because these newfangled cocktails require things like egg whites and uncommon liqueurs. From the post one thing is apparent, he’s either lazy or conservative (in the change is bad type way). But really, this speaks volumes of how far the cocktail community still needs to go to convince people drinks can be enjoyed as a unique creation. There are still influential people out there, who write for magazines, that don’t embrace an interesting cocktail.
This type of article is too easy to rip apart, so I’ll make a few points. Vodka and orange juice is not a classic, it’s what you drink when you have a hangover. Striving for the lowest common denominator is a waste. Never wanting to achieve anything new or creative in life is bizarre, and then trying to infect the world with your “might as well die now” attitude is even worse.
I have no problem with journeymen bartenders who do their thing well, and I respect the talents of flairtenders (because I can’t even juggle), I can even respect the bar school instructors who teach the basics and focus on quality, but don’t rip on people for trying to be unique. I’ll rip on people for being lazy, seeking personal attention at the expense of service (flairtenders, I’m looking in your direction) and those who claim cleavage is all you need to be a bartender, because those things don’t make bartenders look professional.
The world of bartending is at an interesting time point. There are people who would like to keep it as it was in the late 1980s (change is bad types), and there are others who look to develop it into a more respectable profession. The conflict seems to come from the inherent insecurity of the Bartending Magazine types who see these new trends as something that could make them obsolete. Once people start enjoying a good cocktail, they won’t go back to a Screwdriver, and if that’s the only option, they won’t be tipping generously for it. Here’s an old post from 2007 that clearly demonstrates my point: Cocktail Hall of Shame
As the world evolves there are winners and losers. The problem is that the losers tend to go out in an epic hissy-fit as they pass into history. So for the evolving world of mixology and the bartenders who embrace it, be prepared for more of these types of articles from those who are to lazy to change. But, the future looks bright because if wine and beer are indicators of peoples drink tastes, quality and flavour are where it is at.
Audios to bad cocktails and bad bartenders.
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Reminds me of the craft beer naysayers, Darcy, the guys—and they were almost always guys—who would bemoan the fact that “fancy” beers were replacing good ol’ American—and they were almost always American - beers, manly beers that you drank straight from the can or bottle. Anything different was, for them, sissy beer.
Come to think of it, those types are still with us, if perhaps a bit less vocal than they were a decade or two ago. I expect their cocktail equivalent will, as you note, become noisier as cocktail programs continue to improve.
Really, people still drink Screwdrivers?
I like to think that there’s a middle ground between the complex cocktails with half a dozen hard-to-find ingredients and simple, yet tasty, cocktails with a new twist here or there.
But is the bar the focus anymore? Are we, perhaps, moving to a time when more people are drinking in their home? Either because they enjoy experimenting with the drinks themselves or they want to cut down the extra costs involved with drinking out.
Personally I feel that this profession is ever evolving, ever changing, whether it was at the time of the mere begining of the word “cocktail” or the last few years when bartenders like myself have been stripping drinks back down to the basics, the classics. Now personally I feel the tide is possibly turning more molecular, similar to the way the best kitchens have evolved, the cocktail world has mirrored this. There are always going to be people who look backwards instead of forwards, who are not interested in the future hold and are purely hanging onto their old ways… either old fashioned men (not referring to the drink) deciding cocktails are for fags or bartenders who are happy with the way things have been over the last few years and are against molecular development etc. The people who make the most impact and are remembered are the one’s who led the way, not the one’s who got left behind! Cheers!
The notion in that article that egg whites in cocktails was a newfangled trend just about made my head explode.
I do appreciate it when reading about an interesting cocktail online, when I get to the recipe, I can actually try to make it at home. It is so disappointing to see the pretty picture, read about the drinks pedigree and/or flavors, then read the recipe only to find out I am missing an obscure bitter, foam or liqueur.
But when out at a bar, or cocktail lounge, I welcome the obscure ingredients whole-hearted.
I don’t think the rum+coke is in any danger of extinction. I suspect the bemoaning of complexity is coming from the same people who reduced the martini to one ingredient.